Arch Linux Iomega IConnect

I got an iConnect a few years ago. 1 Ghz processor, 256 MB RAM, Gigabit Ethernet, Wireless Card, 4 USB Ports (3 Usable).

Quite a good machine to run embedded Linux on. I had it running various services such as OWFS 1-Wire, XRF Wireless from Ciseco and other testing projects.

Anyway, one day I was tinkering and I broke it. It had to do with the bloody Arch Linux updates and Kernel modules. It was in a heap and was useless. I was busy being distracted by other projects, so the iConnect was put offline and joined the grave yard of stalled/unfinished projects.

One day, recently, I talked to Dr Google about hacking the iConnect.

I came across a couple of interesting links dealing with installing Debian on the iConnect.

http://scriptkiller.de/en/a54/computer_electronics/hacking_the_iomega_iconnect/

http://www.kroonen.eu/wiki/Debian%20iConnect

Really excellent links. You should have a read if you are interested in this type of stuff.

The link that was really the money shot was

http://pawelwozniak.info/index.php/embedded-linux/iconnect/126-install-archarm-linux-on-iconnect

It contains all the information required to install Arch Linux on the iConnect.

I used the Sarkfun FTDI Basic Breakout - 5V which I got from Cool Components to gain console access. I modified it to use 3.3V rather then the hotter 5V. Perfect.

The final update is to set the arcNumber from 1682 to 2870. This gives you access to the specific hardware in the iConnect, such as LEDS and the button.

They are located in:

/sys/class/leds

This is what you get:


iconnect:blue:otb -> ../../devices/platform/leds-gpio/leds/iconnect:blue:otb
iconnect:blue:power -> ../../devices/platform/leds-gpio/leds/iconnect:blue:power
iconnect:blue:usb1 -> ../../devices/platform/leds-gpio/leds/iconnect:blue:usb1
iconnect:blue:usb2 -> ../../devices/platform/leds-gpio/leds/iconnect:blue:usb2
iconnect:blue:usb3 -> ../../devices/platform/leds-gpio/leds/iconnect:blue:usb3
iconnect:blue:usb4 -> ../../devices/platform/leds-gpio/leds/iconnect:blue:usb4
iconnect:led_level -> ../../devices/platform/leds-gpio/leds/iconnect:led_level
iconnect:red:power -> ../../devices/platform/leds-gpio/leds/iconnect:red:power
rt2800pci-phy0::assoc -> ../../devices/pci0000:00/0000:00:01.0/leds/rt2800pci-phy0::assoc
rt2800pci-phy0::quality -> ../../devices/pci0000:00/0000:00:01.0/leds/rt2800pci-phy0::quality
rt2800pci-phy0::radio -> ../../devices/pci0000:00/0000:00:01.0/leds/rt2800pci-phy0::radio

http://archlinuxarm.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=27&t=2612

Great work. Costs no money, so Woo Hoo!!

I plan to use to use it for Project Janus. It will use an iButton key fob or an RFID card to control some devices. There will also be other sensors in the loop for status updates, PIR and perhaps some audio component. Cool....

Raspberry PI Arduino Shield - Cheap Option

I have a project on the go which I call Project Doorman aka Carlton. It will involve a Raspberry PI, I2C connections controlling a 1-Wire controller which will be connected to a DS2408 switch. I will use an iButton ID keyfob and sensor i got from http://www.homechip.com a few years ago. So, keybob, open the door and Bob's your auntie.

I wanted to have as much of the electronics mounted on the RPI. I have a Slice of PI by ciseco.co.uk but the prototyping space is too small.

I was also looking at the Adafruit Prototyping Pi Plate Kit for Raspberry Pi but that would cost €20 landed. I was going use it, so all the fancy connectors etc., would end up not being used. Feck that, I said. I know the bits would be used on other projects. A penny saved is a penny to squander.

I read about a fella who was talking about using an Arduino Prototyping Shield on the RPI. That sparked an idea.

In my previous researching/playing with Arduinos, I got Budget Proto Shield (x3) from Oomlaut.com. I had one I hadn't used.

So I desoldered the headers, and soldered one on the other way.

Presto Chango, I had a Cheapo Raspberry PI Prototyping Shield/Plate

Here is the Protoshield attached.

it only uses a single line header, which provides access to the I2C pins (3 & 5). I also get 3.3V on pin 1. I will also need access to the 5V pin (2) and Ground pin (6). I probably will put a small header piece to accomodate this and solder some pieces of wire and connect it to the Shield. I don't care really, whatever works.

It is a nice size and definately has the real estate I need.

From the side. I used the space to have it fit on top of the other bits of hardware, in this case, the composite video connector. Everything has to be nice, after all.

Kist the header from different angles.

Here we have the major components that will be used for this project. The red guy is a Logic Level Converter I got from CoolComponents.co.uk. Very cheap and useful. It ensures that I only have 3.3V connecting to the RPI.

The next girl is the Dallas DS2482-800 the I2C 8 Channel 1-Wire Master Controller. I used the Tirna SMT SMD DIL adaptor SOIC 16 PIN NARROW  to mount the DS2482-800. Very Handy and fairly cheap.

The final good buddy is a Dallas  DS2408 a 8 Channel 1-Wire Adressable Switch. Very handy. Again I used the Tirna adapter.

That is about it. I will probably reorganise the layout to facilitate adding extra components. I might add a couple of light sensors, while I am at it.

So, what are the benefits? Cheap and Useful. I don't really need a prototyping board. It is going strainght into production.

Sinead's 1-Wire Alarm Clock

My daughter Sinead has a problem getting up for college in the morning.

She finds standard alarm clocks do not work for her. Too easy to turn off and go snoozing again.

We investigated a number of solutions, such as louder alarm clocks etc, but nothing really provided a complete solution.

I have been involved, some people would say obsessed, with Home Automation for a while now. One of the technologies that I use is called '1-Wire'.

1-Wire is basically a 2 wire network, that can be used with a number of components supplied by Dallas Semiconductor Co (now Maxim) to perform a number of functions, controlled by a computer for example.

They are probably best known, in geekdom, for their DS18S20 temperature sensor. I use these throughout the house to measure the temperature in different rooms.

They product other chips that do different things. The one I used in this case was a DS2405 addressable switch. It is an oldish device that has been superseded by the DS2406 and DS2408.

Anyway, it can be used as a switch and as a sensor to detect voltage. Pretty useful.

When the alarm goes off, the patron will need to get out of the scratcher, go to where the computer is, bring up a web page and click 'OFF'. She has an iPaq which is connected to the network. There will be a block on using an iPaq to turn off the alarm. Hehe! Evil, evil, evil.

My design is as follows:

1. Use my existing 1-Wire network to control the DS2405.
2. Use the DS2405 to control a relay.
3. Use the relay to switch on and off a sound source.
4. Use a PHP web page to interface with the set-up, i.e. turn on/off, set-up schedules, etc.
5. Use bash scripts to manage the schedule automatically.
6. Cost me nothing, except time.

List of materials:

DS2405 (or DS2406 or DS2408)

Some relay. I used a Opto-Isolator, which I already had. I used Opto-isolator,ISD74 5300Vac/50mA DIP8 which I got from Radionics.ie

A door /window alarm I got from Lidl a number of years ago. There is a small siren, that is loud enough for this application. I shouldn't wake people in other rooms.

5V Transformer. I used one from an old Sony walkman.

Various cabling, cat-5 and phone cable.

Some heat shrink sleeving (to make it all neat-o)


Construction:

Prepare the alarm. Strip out the button batteries, remove the battery contacts. You are left with a red and black wire. I also removed the reed relay sensor.

Connect the 1-Wire cable to the GND and 5V of the DS2405.

Connect the PIO and GND of the DS2405 to the appropriate pins. See spec sheet for this chip.

Connect the output pins to the 5V+. One to the walkman and the other to the 5V on the alarm siren (red wire).

Connect the black wire from the alarm to the gnd on the transformer.


I was able to fit all the components in to the alarm, after removing the batteries and cutting a plastic separator.


Wired it up to the 1-Wire controller and tested it. Worked perfectly.

Patched it through from where the main computer is to Sinead's bedroom.


Next Step:

Write the PHP script to provide an interface to turn it off, when the patron has arisin.

Put together a bash script to automate the switch on and off of the alarm. I think 30 mins on would be sufficient. I you can't get up in that time, you are not there or there is a serious problem.

This will be the easy part.